While Sri Lanka’s reputation as a tropical paradise attracts plenty of surfers and beachgoers alike, travelers – especially the particularly culinary-conscious – would be remiss not to indulge in the island’s diverse and delicious cuisine.
Drawing from its multi-ethnic makeup, rich history, and abundance of fresh, flavorful ingredients, Sri Lanka’s food is as colourful and fascinating as the island itself. Read on to see SISL’s top 10 reasons why Sri Lanka is every foodie’s dream!
For those who follow Style in Sri Lanka on Instagram, you will more than likely know I have a soft spot for Jaffna. Following a 2 week solo trip where I visited as many sights as possible, I decided to write a guide to help and inspire others on their travels too.
The furthest sight I’ve included is about 45 minutes from the centre- Point Pedro. I hope you find this guide full of inspiring places to add to your list for a wonderful cultural trip to the kaliedoscopic province of Jaffna!
If you’ve been to Jaffna you may notice I haven’t included everything such asthe Architectural Museum and Nilavarai Bottomless Well. I visited both but to be honest, they were a bit of an anticlimax compared to the other sites.
From fascinating historic sights sprinkled across the town, humbling locals, majestic Hindu Kovils and Catholic Churches to mouthwatering Tamil cuisine; the North is a safe, culturally rich destination for the discerning traveler.
Travelling to Jaffna from Colombo is also incredibly easy- and I’m speaking from the perspective as a solo female traveller. I tend to favour the night train from Colombo Fort, leaving around 8:30pm and arriving about 6am but understand that may be a little too adventurous for some.
I book a seat on 1st class with AC which needs to be organised at least a couple of days in advance. As much as I love a local train experience on 2nd or 3rd class, I tend to keep those to shorter distances e.g from Colombo to Galle which are a little less cross country.
A huge thank you to Jetwing for sponsoring this guide. They have a beautiful hotel in the heart of Jaffna which is modern, comfortable and convinient, with a second property called Jetwing Northgate a stone’s throw from the railway station.
The rooms at Jetwing Jaffna are vibrant and spacious, with a modern infusion of an authentic Northern vibe.
Set out bright and early, bring a large umbrella or plenty of sun protection and bottles of cold water. I tend to travel by tuk tuk around town but a bike or scooter can be rented should you wish. In comparison to the South Coast of Sri Lanka, the roads are generally calmer and safer- with bikes/motorbikes outnumbering cars.
1. Jaffna Library 10-15 minutes
Rebuilt after a fire in 1981 during the civil war, Jaffna Library is a bold tribute to it’s former 1933 glory. Visiting hours for non members is between 4:30-6pm (in restricted zones) although to be honest, peeking through reception and admiring the exterior is the main attraction.
2. Jaffna Fort 30-40 minutes
Towardsthe entrance of the Pannai causeway (in the direction of Nagadeepa and Delft island) is Jaffna Fort. It’s free to visit (as are many sites in Jaffna) with a small archaeological museum should you wish to learn more about the local history.
It’s just as popular with locals as it is with foreign visitors, with ice cream vans parked up at the entrance tempting eager-eyed children.
3. Jaffna Market 30 minutes
Jaffna’s central marketis a haven for curious foodies. There are three sections- a row of impeccably displayed fresh fruit & veg , a narrow alleyway specializing in homemade palmyrah products (a species of palm) and a cluster of larger independent stalls with snacks, sweets, drinks, jars/pickles and more.
It’s not unknown for people to venture from all parts of Sri Lanka to stock up on local eats from this market alone!
4. Sinnakadai Market 30 minutes
Approximately 10 minutes out of town is Sinnakadai market, a rustic boxed building splashed with vibrant panels of colour. Here you will mainly find fish, fruit & vegetable, meat and spice vendors. I bought a couple of packets of Jaffna curry powder and turmeric. It can be a little chaotic but with an open mind and sense of adventure you will no doubt be mesmerized by the local buzz.
I enjoyed it as much as the central market because the crowd (both sellers and the general public) are so charismatic- just be sure to watch your step, especially in the fish section!
5. Nallur Kovil 30 minutes
No doubt the most iconic sight in Jaffna, Nallur Kovil is a short tuk tuk ride (or a scenic 30 minute walk if you can take the heat!) from the town centre. The surrounding shops are also very interesting- fresh local eats, fabrics/saris and religious offerings.
Don’t forget to respect the dress code– women are expected to cover knees & shoulders whilst men must cover knees and (upon entering the building) remove shirts. As Jaffna is a very modest part of Sri Lanka, I tend to dress suitably for Kovils at all times as a personal preference.
6. Mantri Manai (ruins of King Sangiliyan’s Minister’s Residence) 20 minutes
A rustic old building, also known as the ruins of Jaffna Kingdom. There used to be goats bleating about in the garden but I couldn’t spot any on my second visit.
Imagining what it looked like in it’s glory days as you amble from room to room is all part of it’s charm despite being a little unkempt today. It’s not managed per se so you can wander around at your own leisure.
7. St Mary’s Cathedral & St John Baptist’s Church 20 minutes
There are a cluster of Catholic Churches in and around Jaffna which I love to visit as much as exploring Hindu Kovils.
St Mary’s Cathedral is in a small, residential part of town (pictured) whilst St John Baptist’s Church is also close- opposite the US hotel (where I had a tasty biriyani one day). Take a seat in the pews, absorb the peace & calm and admire the architecture.
8. Maruthanamadam Anjaneyar Kovil 15 mins
10 minutes out of town, this slightly trippy new age Hindu Kovil with flashing green Tamil letters at the entrance has a 72 foot statue of Lord Hanuman. Be prepared to be wowed as it towers above you in a remarkable neon shade of jade green.
There are a handful of stalls lining the entrance selling buffalo curd, peanuts/nuts, fruit and coconuts amongst other local eats.
What to do out of town
Keerimalai- Springs, Naguleswaram Kovil and Dambakola Patuna Temple- 1/2 Day
A beautiful scenic drive North and slightly East of Jaffna, Keerimali is a calm, spiritual haven and still incredibly untouristy- in fact, the only people I met the two hours I was exploring were locals.
With a natural water spring, historic Hindu Kovil and Buddhist Temple alongside the crystal clear waters of the Indian Ocean, it’s without a doubt one of the most underated gems of Sri Lanka.
9. Keerimali Springs 10-15 minutes (or longer to swim).
I would never have considered bathing in the water at Keerimalai (especially travelling solo) however had I brought a change of clothes, definitely would have. There were a few kids splashing around but it was incredibly relaxed and unintrusive.
If you look closely in the water there are tiny schools of fish swimming around- hence the strict no soap policy. The entrance fee is about 20 rupees which I’m sure you will agree won’t break the bank!
10. Naguleswaram Kovil 20 minutes
Very close to Keerimali Springs (walking distance) is Naguleswaram Kovil. There are two sections, the older part dating back to pre 6th century BCE (pictured above) and the newer section currently under renovation.
From what I was told, there’s an enormous bull in the garden but it was tucked around the side (I should have guessed there was something there as it attracted quite a crowd) and missed it.
11. Dambakola Patuna 10-15 minutes
A significant site for Buddhists, believed to be home to the first sacred boa tree brought from India when it was a port during ancient times. The story is beautifully illustrated on the walls inside so it’s worth visiting with someone who understands Sinhala and can translate, otherwise I recommend reading up on it’s history beforehand.
There are no historic monuments still standing from this era but it very tranquil -in fact one of the most tranquil places I have ever been in Sri Lanka- with a mesmerising view of the ocean.
12. Kadurugoda Raja Maha Viharaya 10 minutes
On route to Keerimalai, this ancient site is concealed in the depths of a local village- only easily accessible via private transport as there are no buses (to my knowledge) which go directly there. Visit Kadurugoda Raja Maha Viharaya on route to Keerimalai as it’s about half way.
13. Nagadeepa Island 3/4 Day
Just 35 miles from India, Nagadeepa is a popular pilgrimage site for Hindus and Buddhists across Sri Lanka. From the journey along the panoramic causeways, the boat trip to the island (not for the claustrophobic!) to exploring the sites, a trip to Nagadeepa is a real adventure. I’m not including boat departure times here in case they change- the best way to find out is by asking your hotel or guesthouse directly the day before.
There’s one section of the Buddhist Temple ‘Nagadeepa Viharaya’ which requests foreigners to pay Rs.500. I wouldn’t recommend doing this as there’s nothing additional to see beyond. I will always give a donation when visiting temples but I believe the amount should be up to the individual. You can either take a tuk tuk or walk from the Buddhist Temple to the Hindu Kovil.
14. Delft (Neduntheevu) Island 3/4 Day
Accessible from the same harbour as Nagadeepa, Delft (locally known as Neduntheevu) is a fascinating island, with a real neighbourly community atmosphere as you venture along the coral-lined tracks. I recommend hiring a tuk on the island (the going rate is Rs.1,500) for a couple of hours to see the main sites as it’s far (and hot!) to cover by foot.
There’s a very specific time when the boat heads back to the harbour so make sure not to miss it- the journey takes about 40 minutes each way.
If you wish to dine in the main restaurant on Delft, place your order when you arrive before heading off to explore- it to be ready when you return. I had some short eats and tea with the locals at the small tea shop which is on the left as you walk up from the harbour before the archway.
15. KKS Beach
At the very end of the railway line from Colombo Fort, Kankesanthurai (or KKS)is one of the most underrated beach havens in Sri Lanka. With clean golden sands and azure blue waters, it’s almost tempting to leave this out of the blog post to keep it a secret!
Sandwiched between the beach and the railway station, there’s a hotel owned by the army called Thalsevana should you wish to stay a couple of nights.
There’s also another beach called Casuarina which is very popular with locals but I personally prefer KKS as it’s cleaner, a little more spacious and I didn’t feel so self-conscious.
If you do choose to go to Casuarina there’s a Hindu Kovil close by which has a very spiritual, if somewhat eerie atmosphere which I felt made it worth the trip.
16. Point Pedro
The northernmost tip of Sri Lanka, Point Pedro is a charismatic local town, beaming with rustic authenticity. The ‘Point’ itself is understated, with a cluster of local fishing boats often surrounding the harbour.
Driving through Point Pedro is a nice experience and although I didn’t have a lot of time, there are some quaint Churches and Kovils in the area to explore too.
So there you have it- my ultimate guide of what to see and do in Jaffna. Do share your experiences, thoughts etc in the comments below and most importantly, I hope you have a wonderful time- it’s a beautiful, charming place which is very close to my heart.
Let me start by saying that I’ve quite literally travelled all across Sri Lanka solo in every way you could possibly imagine. From cars, trains, bicycles, tuk tuks, boats, vans and buses to a hot air balloon and an army jeep, I have a lot of first hand experience as both a tourist and a resident. From my first solo trip 2 years ago (I travelled with family prior to this) to the guesthouse where I’m writing this in Jaffna, I have learnt so much between then and now by these many experiences.
I honestly do believe Sri Lanka is one of the safest countries in Asia to travel solo but as much as I love living here, unwanted attention, even harassment can be an issue for women. The question is, how to avoid it and stay safe throughout your travels?
I requested the recipe to share with you here on Style in Sri Lanka as it’s truly delicious. I’ve already published one chicken curry by Jetwing Hotels- this has a richer, creamier sauce fragranced with ginger and lemongrass in comparison to the rustic kick of tamarind in Jetwing’s found here.
The recipe is with boneless chicken. In Sri Lanka meat is often cooked on the bone but as this blog is aimed for an international audience, I decided that boneless would be more suitable and appealing to a larger audience.
For the marinade:
500g boneless chicken cubes
1 tsp chilli powder
2 tsp roasted curry powder
½ tsp turmeric powder
1 large onion finely sliced onion
3 sprigs curry leaves
1 1/2 inch piece of rampe
½ tsp chopped ginger
½ tsp chopped garlic
1 stalk of lemongrass
1 piece of cinnamon
1 tsp vegetable oil
Salt to taste
½ a cup thick coconut milk
1. Cut the chicken into cubes and marinate with salt, chilli powder, curry powder and turmeric for about 30 minutes.
2. Heat the oil in a pan and fry the sliced onions, curry leaves, ginger, garlic, lemongrass, cinnamon, rampe and cloves in a medium heat till lightly browned.
3. Add the marinated chicken, half of the coconut milk and let it cook for 10 -15 minutes with the lid on.
4. Mix in the rest of the coconut milk bring to boil, reduce the heat to simmer for about 5 minutes till the meat is cooked through.
5. Season to taste and serve hot.
Any tips of your own when cooking this dish? Do share below!
Ayurveda, translating in Sanskrit as ‘life-knowledge’ travelled across the seas from India to Sri Lanka thousands of years ago. Within local communities of the island today it’s considered an essential daily lifestyle practise- from the body via food to the mind and spirit through meditation.
As well as an alternate form of plant based (herbal) medicine, following an Ayurvedic lifestyle is believed to prevent future inbalances of the body which are considered equally as important in discouraging disease.
I’m no expert in the practise but over the past few years I’ve familiarised myself with the essential Ayurvedic household items as well as what would be considered luxury products inspired or influenced by the ancient practise.
The ideas below are all bought from local supermarkets found across the country from Cargills Food City, Keehls Super to Arpico. The most generously stocked branches (with a wider selection) can be found in major cities and towns.
I was introduced to this zingy cheesecake at the Old Palm House in Galle; a charming refurbished colonial house in perfect harmony of it’s original character.
With passion fruit grown locally in Sri Lanka in addition to the popularity of ginger biscuits sold extensively by all of the major supermarket brands, this cheesecake is the perfect fusion of well loved local flavours in a classic dessert which can be baked and enjoyed across the world.
Rudrani Devi Das is a talented artist, model and blogger of Sri Lankan/Norwegian descent, based in the picturesque countryside of Kandy with her father and teacher Rahju; one of the most celebrated artists of Sri Lanka. Continue reading Interview with Artist Rudrani Devi Das